Things to do in Agadir: the Atlantic bay of the Souss

After the great earthquake that flattened it in the last century, Agadir was rebuilt almost entirely: wide avenues, low-rise buildings and a seafront promenade made for walking. The old part is on the hill, at the Agadir Oufella kasbah, whose slope bears the country's motto written in Arabic: God, Country, King.

It is the capital of the Souss, an Amazigh region where Tashelhit is heard alongside Darija, a land of argan, honey and market gardens. Locals know their city by its port, Souk El Had and family afternoons on the beach, more than by the hotels along the seafront.

To the north, the coast turns rocky and the surf villages begin, led by Taghazout. Inland, Paradise Valley hides rock pools and palm trees. Further afield lie Taroudant and Tiznit, both walled towns, and Essaouira, a medina listed as a World Heritage Site since 2001.

The Moroccan tourist office notes that Spanish is widely spoken in the north and south of the country, and the Instituto Cervantes highlights Spanish teaching at university level in Agadir, where it has a branch. Even so, a few words of Darija open doors: see Spanish, French and Darija.

The centre and the bay are easy on foot. For everything else, a petit taxi with the meter, which is compulsory: ask the driver to switch it on or agree the fare first. For Taghazout or Inezgane there are shared grands taxis.

For the interior, a hire car gives you freedom: read driving in Morocco. Ride-hailing apps work, but the UK Foreign Office warns that many such cars are unlicensed.

One of the mildest summers among the host cities: averages of 25.6 °C for the high and 18.1 °C for the low in June, and 26.7 and 19.2 °C in July. The sun is still strong: sun cream, a cap and water.

The UK Foreign Office warns of strong currents and unexpected waves, and that many beaches have little or no supervision. Inland, the heat climbs quickly: more in weather in June and July.

Agadir is calm, but petty theft is common in medinas and on beaches: don't leave your phone on your towel. In tourist areas, fake guides appear who steer you to shops for a commission; the UK Foreign Office recommends checking their accreditation and the permit from the local authority.

Impromptu henna is another well-known practice: someone starts drawing on you without asking and then demands money. Say no clearly, or agree the price first. More in customs and tipping.